Jammu, called the "city of Temples" is the winter capital of Kashmir. Our final destination in our 9 day tour was in Katra, the base of Vaishnodevi Temple. Jammu was about 280 km of winding roads from Pahalgam, with the Chenab river flowing below (see pic below).Vaishnodevi is on a hill. It is a 14 km trek (one way) up to the temple. The goddess is in the form of three small stones called "pindis," incarnated as Kali, Vaishnodevi (Laxmi), and Saraswati. The idols are enshrined in a cave that would typically be entered through a tunnel. However now, they have created a marble arch and pathway through which one can walk upright. One can go up the hill by helicopter, horseback, doli, or walk. It is said only when the goddess sends a "call to her devotees" does one do the pilgrimage. Alaka and Arpana started the 14 km steep trek at 11pm and reached the top around 2:30am. Jubbi and Vijaya went on horseback and came down by helicopter. It is said that Vaishnodevi's pilgrimage is not complete unless you to visit Bhairavnath -- the story goes that Bhairavnath, a demon was killed by Vaishnodevi for his sins. He asked for forgiveness and in return, the Mata/Goddess said that anyone who visits her should also visit Bhairavnath to complete the pilgrimage. The trek to Bhairavnath is steeper than the one to the goddess. Alaka and Arpana went up another 3 km to Bhairavnath Temple by horse and then walked down about 17 km to the base of the hill and arrived back at the hotel around 8am, disoriented, tired, but blessed! Quite a pilgrimage and what was most helpful in maintaining our stamina and doing the trek was chanting "Jai Mata Di"!!! - it really works!!!
We flew out of Jammu, just a mere 15 km from the Pakistan Border. The airport had real tight security and when they frisked - they really frisked!!!!
